In another thread on this enshittification, someone pointed out a similiar enclosed CoreXY brand, Qidi, that just runs FOSS Klipper. Looked very comparable, with the upcoming generation looking to have an AMS-like multifilament feeder.
Seems like most of the models include a chamber heater for better prints, especially on ABS which I’d given up on without a heater. Comes with brass nozzle for regular filaments, and a steel nozzle for CF filaments. This has replaced the Bambu on my wishlist.
I think. Your link doesn’t appear to go to the comment in question, or else I am blind. (Either is possible.) I just finished a large drawer shell print with my X-Max 3 mere minutes ago, in fact.
My wife has an older QIDI X-one 2 printer and it’s been really great. We load the g-code to the SD card and it just prints. The one she has we rarely have to even level the bed.
I have another printer with a larger print bed but have to level it every print and it’s a pain.
I have a Qidi Q1 Pro and I’m pretty happy with it. Very fast precise prints and pretty reliable. There’s definitely some strange design decisions and weird quirks to it and Bambu machines feel way more polished. Overall I’d definitely recommend the Qidi machines but they are not quite as simple for people with no 3d printing experience. They are very feature rich and amazing printers for the price.
Q1 pro has a filament wiper and a poop trashcan that you need to empty. You’ll do fine using them, they’re a great tool to use as a beginner, just get “quirks” that someone that googles can solve. For the x-plus for instance, the nozzle fan only blows from one direction so you need to print out a two directional one for better printing stability. Honestly, it was my first printer and I did great with it.
Weirdness:
The default g-code for the machine does silly things like park the nozzle over the build plate letting it ooze, instead of over the nozzle wiper/waste container.
The filament change routine is strange, requiring you to remove the bowden tube to cut the filament every time. This is easily fixed by printing a filament cutter and using that to cut the filament.
The bowden tube rubs against the top plexiglass lid for the machine, requiring you to print a riser for the lid to avoid it getting all scratched up.
The door for the machine is an odd shape design with no handle making it a little annoying to get a grip to open it.
The filament holder they include is a very bad design, flexes heavily with a full roll of filament and I have had spools fall off several times while printing.
The touch screen menu isn’t very intuitive and it can be very laggy at times.
Good features for the price point:
Fully enclosed with built in chamber heater.
Pretty decent auto leveling system.
Timelapse camera.
Runs klipper/mainsail and input shaping is pretty cool.
I have around 500 hours on mine and I haven’t had any prints fail that were the fault of the machine so I’m pretty impressed by that. And I find the features and capabilities to be pretty great for the price point. They just could use to do some polishing of the design
Have an x-plus 1 and a q1 pro, both great printers that serve me well. Built a cnc machine on the x-plus lol. Abs works even with the non heated chamber, but the q1 pro has the heater for more reliability and more engineering plastics to print with. Also cheap as hell compared to bamboos. Ama if you guys want
I built an MPCNC for building kitchen cabinets, then managed to wreck it moving it, it was pretty fragile. I’ve been considering building a Lowrider since all I really would use it for is more cabinets and that seems pretty portable/storable with a full sheet print bed.
Lowrider sucks too. Cncs are all about rigidity. You need a serious gantry to do stuff accurately. Root is the cheap way because it uses rollerskate bearings. Printnc is the expensive option, which uses linear rails.
Offtopic, how are you doing abs? An enclosure is a must, with one you should be able to do successful prints so long as you have a heated bed. Give it a good long heat soak at a high bed temp (I do 105-110c on the prusa) for an hour before you even start will go a long way. If you have enclosure or bed fans, even better, you’d be surprised just how hot you can get an enclosure with just the bed, this on my v2.4 so it’s a higher than the prusa
Make sure your surface is oil free, dish soap and water if your surface allows it, some of the smooth pe surfaces I’ve had better luck roughing them up a bit with a scotchbrite pad or brass brush. I use a Buildtak surface these days but had success with standard sheets and a brim.
I eventually built a coreXY printer with a chamber (had to build my own since the patent wasn’t off for heated chambers yet, but then I’d built half a dozen printers already so no big deal) and I got pretty good prints with that, but I’d have to replace the hotend fan fairly often as it would get cooked and usually every time that would happen I’d have to do a coldpull.
I would use bluetape and gluestick to keep it down. When PETG came out, I just mothballed all that because it gave me everything I needed in ABS except maybe the rigidity, but I’d just design to compensate.
In another thread on this enshittification, someone pointed out a similiar enclosed CoreXY brand, Qidi, that just runs FOSS Klipper. Looked very comparable, with the upcoming generation looking to have an AMS-like multifilament feeder.
Seems like most of the models include a chamber heater for better prints, especially on ABS which I’d given up on without a heater. Comes with brass nozzle for regular filaments, and a steel nozzle for CF filaments. This has replaced the Bambu on my wishlist.
https://qidi3d.com/products/qidi-x-max-3
Owner testimonial: https://a.lemmy.world/lemmy.world/comment/14514530
That was me!
I think. Your link doesn’t appear to go to the comment in question, or else I am blind. (Either is possible.) I just finished a large drawer shell print with my X-Max 3 mere minutes ago, in fact.
Fixed, I was 1 level too high to show your comment easily.
My wife has an older QIDI X-one 2 printer and it’s been really great. We load the g-code to the SD card and it just prints. The one she has we rarely have to even level the bed. I have another printer with a larger print bed but have to level it every print and it’s a pain.
I have a Qidi Q1 Pro and I’m pretty happy with it. Very fast precise prints and pretty reliable. There’s definitely some strange design decisions and weird quirks to it and Bambu machines feel way more polished. Overall I’d definitely recommend the Qidi machines but they are not quite as simple for people with no 3d printing experience. They are very feature rich and amazing printers for the price.
What would you say are the quirks? I come from building my own printers for the last 15 years, so I’d say I’m fairly experienced.
What are the interesting features?
Q1 pro has a filament wiper and a poop trashcan that you need to empty. You’ll do fine using them, they’re a great tool to use as a beginner, just get “quirks” that someone that googles can solve. For the x-plus for instance, the nozzle fan only blows from one direction so you need to print out a two directional one for better printing stability. Honestly, it was my first printer and I did great with it.
Weirdness: The default g-code for the machine does silly things like park the nozzle over the build plate letting it ooze, instead of over the nozzle wiper/waste container.
The filament change routine is strange, requiring you to remove the bowden tube to cut the filament every time. This is easily fixed by printing a filament cutter and using that to cut the filament.
The bowden tube rubs against the top plexiglass lid for the machine, requiring you to print a riser for the lid to avoid it getting all scratched up.
The door for the machine is an odd shape design with no handle making it a little annoying to get a grip to open it.
The filament holder they include is a very bad design, flexes heavily with a full roll of filament and I have had spools fall off several times while printing.
The touch screen menu isn’t very intuitive and it can be very laggy at times.
Good features for the price point: Fully enclosed with built in chamber heater.
Pretty decent auto leveling system.
Timelapse camera.
Runs klipper/mainsail and input shaping is pretty cool.
I have around 500 hours on mine and I haven’t had any prints fail that were the fault of the machine so I’m pretty impressed by that. And I find the features and capabilities to be pretty great for the price point. They just could use to do some polishing of the design
Have an x-plus 1 and a q1 pro, both great printers that serve me well. Built a cnc machine on the x-plus lol. Abs works even with the non heated chamber, but the q1 pro has the heater for more reliability and more engineering plastics to print with. Also cheap as hell compared to bamboos. Ama if you guys want
MPCNC?
Nah that one sucks ass. Root 4 and later a PrintNC which I use currently to mill out molds n’such
I built an MPCNC for building kitchen cabinets, then managed to wreck it moving it, it was pretty fragile. I’ve been considering building a Lowrider since all I really would use it for is more cabinets and that seems pretty portable/storable with a full sheet print bed.
Lowrider sucks too. Cncs are all about rigidity. You need a serious gantry to do stuff accurately. Root is the cheap way because it uses rollerskate bearings. Printnc is the expensive option, which uses linear rails.
Offtopic, how are you doing abs? An enclosure is a must, with one you should be able to do successful prints so long as you have a heated bed. Give it a good long heat soak at a high bed temp (I do 105-110c on the prusa) for an hour before you even start will go a long way. If you have enclosure or bed fans, even better, you’d be surprised just how hot you can get an enclosure with just the bed, this on my v2.4 so it’s a higher than the prusa
Make sure your surface is oil free, dish soap and water if your surface allows it, some of the smooth pe surfaces I’ve had better luck roughing them up a bit with a scotchbrite pad or brass brush. I use a Buildtak surface these days but had success with standard sheets and a brim.
I eventually built a coreXY printer with a chamber (had to build my own since the patent wasn’t off for heated chambers yet, but then I’d built half a dozen printers already so no big deal) and I got pretty good prints with that, but I’d have to replace the hotend fan fairly often as it would get cooked and usually every time that would happen I’d have to do a coldpull.
I would use bluetape and gluestick to keep it down. When PETG came out, I just mothballed all that because it gave me everything I needed in ABS except maybe the rigidity, but I’d just design to compensate.