

I did it for the hell of it, I think it had 60-80 fpm after the opening cutscene, literal slideshow experience.
There’s people on proton db claiming higher frames, but like 18-22 fps, def far from playable
I did it for the hell of it, I think it had 60-80 fpm after the opening cutscene, literal slideshow experience.
There’s people on proton db claiming higher frames, but like 18-22 fps, def far from playable
Good to know that hdr works, and that other people are seeing the same edge flicker artifacts, it’s there on others (edges can get a bit shimmery with tsr) but really bad with dlss, I was wondering if it was lighting related but that point about atmospheric effects makes sense. Also tried messing about with the dlss version and settings, no dice unfortunately.
What launch options are you using if you don’t mind? I’ve had some adventures with hdr over the past year (GoW Ragnarok, CP2077 and ER run great, Horizon Zero Dawn absolutely hates it and will black screen with it on with or without gamescope) would love to have that going. I’ll definitely try the texture streaming setting too , some of the stuttering was super noticeable when I first booted it, definitely got better after some time.
My partner gifted me the copy, they’re on windows so (unsurprisingly) windows/linux coop works too. For what it’s worth, I was running it through sunshine to my steamdeck later yesterday and was a pretty solid experience.
I’ll give it a try, thanks!
What proton version are you running? I tried with the latest proton he.
I didn’t find the auto detect super helpful, kept trying to run at very high with full res, was not stellar. Was able to get decent frames with dlss + frame gen, balanced on high, dropping from 3440x1440 to 2560x1080 went into the 100s, dlss looks really bad with it though, like the edge artifacts are rough looking. Settled on tsr, find fsr really blurry, and no frame gen.
Didn’t do matchmaking, but co-op with my partner worked just fine.
I tried on the steamdeck, didn’t tweak much, didn’t expect it to be great but don’t think I expected PowerPoint level frames.
Edit, specs 4070ti 11900k 32 GB ram On arch with most recent drivers
Are you able to mess with the first layer offset on the bambu printers? May need to bring your nozzle a bit closer, especially with a textured surface. Temps seem comparable to the stuff I have on hand.
For cleaning, is soap and water compatible with your surface? Personally found that while IPA is fine for maintenance, a few drops of unscented dish soap in water works extremely well as a degreaser, I’ve literally washed stubborn surfaces in the sink. Petg is super picky with any residual oils and the small nozzle could totally make that worse.
Maybe try running slower? Just to eliminate variables, may be worth running a quick extrusion calibration? Petg can be an absolute pain for bed adhesion in my experience.
Definitely something that annoyed me! If you’re ok with mods, Vanilla Armour Expanded has you covered for Marine & Plate gloves and boots. The apparel one gives you boots and gloves too if you want stuff for your pawns that don’t fight.
I posted this a while back, came across a post on hackaday on doing clear lens on a resin printer with lower effort, the article links an older one about doing clear resin prints that might be helpful. To me they look pretty decent, certainly a heck of a lot better than any transparent prints I’ve done with a filament printer.
As others said though, easiest would probably be doing something like laser cut acrylic and sandwiching the picture between them.
I hope not, it’s apparently pretty awful. You were up to fairly recently able to get Acetaminophen w/ caffeine and codeine (8mg) over the counter in Canada, found an article about a decade ago that mentions liver injury in people, definitely recall reading articles about bans on the sale because of the injury risk.
It’ll cause more zits and the like, more stringing, don’t know that’d 100% cause the issue but certainly won’t help.
I just did a round of nylon last week which is also super hygroscopic, bag’s like at most 8 months old but seal was intact. Even printing out of a drybox with fresh desiccant I noticed more stringing and occasional blobs + nozzle buildup over the few days (Was redoing my hotend so I inspected it, no sign of nozzle leaking), can definitely make overhangs worse.
It’s pretty easy to overdose on Acetaminophen, Wikipedia suggests >100k a year in the us (it’s in so many OTC medication, stuff like cough syrups and the like, really easy to hit the 4g/day max dose)
I’ll still use it, just use it responsibly.
Could try turning the bow forward and see if that changes anything. From what I’ve read, start low with the fan, like 10-15%.
All else fails, still say worth drying it if you can, I’ve had some really damp spools fresh out of the bag before.
What printer and what orientation did you print these?
Almost looks like some of the ones I’ve done in abs where I didn’t get proper cooling (turned to have the bow @ 45°, 90° being straight toward the rear of the printer for reference) either from my fan settings or orientation, could try increasing the fan speed? I know you said you’ve dropped the temperature but personally I still find I need to have the part cooling fan on (do print enclosed though so YMMV)
How dry is the filament, afaik tpu is hygroscopic (been a while since I’ve printed with it unfortunately), I’ve seen messy bow show up on less dry filament, always worth a try anyhow just to remove variables.
It’s very deflection heavy, found once I got into the rhythm it was pretty well balanced. There are some standouts to me that took me longer, but frankly those were exceptions, runbacks are super short so getting back to a fight is quick, nothing really felt like a slog to me and there’s a lot of build options.
It’s one I definitely put down a few times and came back to, it can be challenging at times but to me never felt unfair, pretty much always knew why I died. I enjoyed it a lot, definitely one of my favourite of last year.
Semi related, I was thinking about turning my mk3 into a core xy, came across a conversion for a mk3s that looks to reuse quite a few components, ProosaXY. I really like how many different mods people have done with these old machines, definitely helps keep things useful
100% this, bed cleanliness is the first thing I’d look at for any adhesion issue. Dilute soap and water works well too, just pay attention to your surface, some don’t like any solvents or water, just a wipe with micro fibre.
A lot of companies require parking so you can pull out of a spot as a safety thing, it’s just second nature to me even though I haven’t had a job that requires it in years. It’s easier to see traffic that way, larger vehicles especially it’s just way easier to park that way. I’ll usually pull through if I can, but not always an option.
For the work I did, safety wise it was so that no hitches were sticking out into traffic (pedestrian or vehicle), being able to maintain eye contact with other drivers and pedestrians and for evacuation in case of emergency.
FiiO has some that aren’t super pricey (they run a range, their entry level stuff is usually really affordable), their amps and DACs are pretty solid in my experience so I’d totally look into one, second hand would definitely be an option there too.
It was one course (had a you fail the course if you got a sub 40% on the final) and I was able to rewrite the exam in the summer, loss of structure killed me coming from hs. Was definitely a wake up for me as well, had study groups and roommates in subsequent years which helped me (and unhealthy quantities of caffeine)
Got diagnosed with ADHD around a decade after graduating, which explained pretty much everything looking back.
Yeah, was like just over a year later, they still are the independent & small label place imo, I don’t have faith that’ll last forever unfortunately. They still are my go to place for discovery and exploration, bandcamp daily still has some interesting finds, I just make sure I download my purchases.
There’s so many mods out there for them too because of their openness, I’ve got a v2.4, flying gantry is cool as heck but I’d consider doing a trident, the 350mm bed size is overkill for most of my prints.
I find mine produces some really nice parts, able to hit chamber temps into the 60s pretty reliably, warp isn’t really a huge concern for me with it.