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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 10th, 2023

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  • Kinda seems like a similar idea to the solar heating that Drake Landing in Okotoks Alberta has. Had a heat xfer prof in uni who was really passionate about that project in particular, and this was back in 2007, really don’t know why solar district heating like this doesn’t really seem to have caught on, afaik it works well.

    Edit. I’m ootl, apparently that got decommissioned recently which sucks, was a really interesting idea, guess I have my answer as to why they didn’t catch on! It lasted far beyond the 4 year test period and supplied a large amount of the community’s heating needs, it’s cold in the winter in Okotoks so that’s even more impressive to me.



  • Yeah, constantly, the easy example is keyboard input, the dual trackpad input is really nice to use. I wish they were a hair larger and round like the original steam controller becauae they were amazing on that, but even then, rotary menus are an amazing feature and the trackball mode is really nice to use. They’re a heck of a lot nicer than the joystick mouse for me.

    Nicest part about the deck/controller is the flexibility, touchscreen helps add even more utility but the original controller could totally be used for keyboard/mouse heavy games on the couch, some people go wild with multiple control layers and button chords, there’s a lot of ability to customise things which is appreciated.


  • morbidcactusto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldDust.
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    3 days ago

    Depends on the printer, the large Vorons use high wattage ac heaters and are self enclosed, I have fans on mine that force air under the bed, can easily push into the 60s in the summer. My prusa in its enclosure maybe does mid-high 40s, but I have no issues with warping, did all my original voron prints on it and still use it for smaller/quick prints, good adhesion helps a lot, for small stuff I don’t always preheat for abs. I pretty much run Buildtak surfaces on my printers, it’s replaceable if it’s damaged + adheres extremely well so I can get away with being a bit more carefree.

    Haven’t personally needed additional heating other than maybe a space heater in the garage to stop things from kicking out on a low temp when not in use, did consider modding one into the enclosure but I’m personally thinking about going for insulation first.

    I’d be cautious about a long term extension cord outside, I’m not an Electrician or an EE so I won’t give you advice on that, be nervous I’d clip it mowing the lawn at the minimum, mains spooks me so I give it an overabundance of caution.


  • morbidcactusto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldDust.
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    3 days ago

    Enclosures are a must IMO, but I do print mostly abs and nylon. I have mine in the garage in a separate airspace with recirc filters like the Nevermore, have the large stealthmax on my voron, I don’t stay in the room when I print, but it definitely reduces the residuals.

    If you have to print inside, vent outside, benefit of using an enclosure is that you can set this up pretty easily. Venting the entire room outside is also a good option. I do not recommend using anything but the “safer” filaments until you’re certain the airspace is separate from your home, I’m on the cautious side.

    All filaments produce fumes, you still don’t want to be breathing pla or petg fumes on the regular, I don’t mess with resin, you want VOC cartridges and a respirator for those AFAIK, I have some from previous jobs and they’re pretty affordable but it sucks to work with those on in the summer (and I’d need to shave…). There’s variation between manufactures of the same type of plastic, I’ve got some abs that has minimal to no scent, have another I’ve used that stinks.


  • morbidcactusto3DPrinting@lemmy.world3D Printing is Fun!
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    4 days ago

    It’s a learning experience. Is your nozzle torqued to spec? Only time I’ve seen something like this is when the heatbreak/nozzle weren’t set correctly on a v6 hotend, and even then it just oozed down, didn’t consume the entire heatsink. I kept that in my box of learning lol, swapped everything to hotends that are secured so they don’t spin freely after that, was petg so it degraded in the heat and was such a pain in the ass to remove from set screws, was ok writing it off.

    Bed adhesion is often caused by surface cleanliness in my experience, some setting will influence it but you’re going to chase problems if your surface has residual oils, some surfaces are more sensitive to it but even the oils in your fingerprints can cause a loss of adhesion. Light dish soap and water is the general recommendation for a degreaser but be aware that this will damage some surfaces, I’ve got some that explicitly want only 99% IPA and another that only wants a clean microfibre cloth.

    Drafts can cause an issue too, seen some abs fail becauae I didn’t have the enclosure latched properly and the doors worked their way open with vibrations from printing, I keep mine in my garage and live in Canada, enclosures are a must for me.


  • I’ve always felt a bit off about the current NDP leadership, overtly negative blamey messaging, conflating federal and provincial responsibilities. The party as of 2021 was keeping all of the campaign reimbursements instead of that going to the candidates. They seem to have no local presence, Tories and Liberals have door knocked and sent out information multiple times in the last year, I don’t even know who my federal NDP candidate is locally. Provincially, our NDP person is super active and actually responds to me when I contact them so it’s not just an NDP thing.

    I really disliked that they supported bill s-210 that’s the age verification bill, historically the NDP seemed to be pro privacy, disappointed at that apparent departure.


  • It’s night and day different isn’t it? That 90hz display makes a larger difference than I expected as well, my partner’s oled deck is way smoother looking on top of having nicer looking visuals (I’m a sucker for HDR). LCD is still an incredible device, especially if you get it at a discount like I did mine ($475 CAD all in is amazing value), but if you can afford an oled one, it’s totally worth it.

    They have oled refurbs now, which I’d totally do having had mine apart to do a clicky button mod, it’s really easy to get into and easy to service.



  • The thrash/trad vest I have I made myself (from someone else’s pattern though), diy is always good. Plus you can customise it, I did some flannel lining in places. Thrift or upcycle works just as well.

    Bonus points for hand painted patches too, that’s beyond my ability but it’s def a thing, I just messed around with different stitching, a lot are hand sewn with stuff that’s like thick dental floss becauae I like the look, looks a lot better on my black/death vest though, studs/spikes aren’t my preference so I don’t have those.

    There’s a bunch of different looks, different groups have their own style, depends on what you want to do, could go as far as some crust/patch pants or stick with the classic blue denim and band shirt look, shit I’ve seen flannel or military jackets turned into battle vests, just make it your own. I’ve always worn work boots to shows, that’s just what I have.

    TL:DR, to me, diy is the point and historically a big part of the culture, do what you think looks cool.


  • Oled is noticeable larger, on paper it’s only 0.4"diagonally but it’s obvious having my lcd deck beside my partner’s oled one, plus the oled one just looks a lot nicer. I’ve had more issues personally with some games not letting me scale down the ui, rimworld is totally playable on the deck but I find the interface gets in the way.

    Steam deck xl could be an idea but you’d probably have some weight/ergonomics issues. Deck itself already dwarfs my switch lite (and is more comfortable to use…), do find I prefer some games on a larger screen, but it does usually work well at the distances I hold it.






  • I’ve got a 4070ti running most recent nvidia-open on arch and haven’t had that happen, but I don’t tend to run with vsync often.

    What proton version are you running this on? Had some weird almost microstutters in cutscenes playing DA:Veilguard through moonlight on my steamdeck. Swapping to experimental resolved that, think it was one version of proton-ge that I had the issue with.

    Do you have vrr enabled by any chance?

    Are you running through gamescope? Have had grief with gamescope and nvidia, but that was mostly with hdr.


  • First, sorry that you’re going through this.

    Might be worth contacting your university’s financial services as you have a pretty major change to your circumstances, afaik there’s non GPA related grants (at least used to be), they’ll be able to tell you a lot more.

    I had university engineering projects on my resume when I graduated as my summer jobs were labour jobs, it was enough to get me into my first two jobs, first of which was a tech role that I learned a lot in and while tangential to my degree, absolutely opened the door for me.

    Could try looking at help desk jobs, buddy of mine did tech support at an ISP during uni, it’s transferable skills too. Looking at smaller (and local) companies well help, probably have an easier time if you’re willing to go into an office (which I get not wanting, remote work is preferable to me, but push comes to shove I’ll do a soul crushing commute again).

    Do you have friends or family that might be able to give you a place to stay? May also want to look at your region’s youth services and organisations like yws.



  • Ended up dropping for good toward the end of beyond light, my partner and I primarily pvped (just for fun, wasn’t super into ranked honestly) and was feeling really stale, was getting tired of only control (easily my least favourite gamemode) for 6s and only elim or showdown for 3s got dry, missed a variety of game modes (and personally liked 4s). It sucked because destiny had really fun PvP and amazing guns, hand cannons will be the iconic weapons to me, rolled with a chaperone/hc combo or hc/fusion rifle since house of wolves, they got bows right too, the lemonarque was fantastic.


  • morbidcactusto3DPrinting@lemmy.world3d printer recommendations
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    18 days ago

    Are you planning to regularly print large items? Around that price range could get you a formbot v0.2 kit with printed parts. It’s core xy and open source if that matters to you. Print size is 120x120x120 which is small for sure, but in my experience, most of the stuff I print falls in that range (I have a 350mm v2.4 and a mk3s I’ve rarely filled the build plate on either, I’d love a few small printers for quick test prints). It’s also enclosed, can put a Nevermore Micro in it for fumes, and it’s designed to be able to print abs. Supposed to be able to print all the parts for larger vorons on it too if you ever do wish to go larger.

    My first printer was a MendelMax 2 kit that I had to sell unfortunately due to a move and not wanting to ship a glass bed cross country. I personally like a kit for a first build, while I get that people don’t vibe with tinkering or maintenance, you’ll learn a lot and you can tweak it to your liking.

    You could source from a Canadian vendor (assuming you’re Canadian based on your instance), I’ve sourced a lot from Spool3D in Calgary but will cost you more than the formbot kit. Definitely recommend them for future needs. 3D labtech carries a lot of mods, had great experiences with both of them.