Just bought my first road bike and put it on a trainer for the winter. Still tweaking the saddle and such for a more comfortable ride but I’m not there yet.

  • GrindingGears
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    3 days ago

    Sore wrists can mean your seat is a big too high too. Or your reach is too far. Try holding your bars 10mm back from your hoods for a bit, and see if your hands still hurt. It’s not always the stem either, sometimes bars can have too much reach as well, it kind of works in concert. But yeah pull your hands back for a bit and it’ll definitely feel kind of weird but just focus on seeing if your wrists still hurt after riding in that position for a bit.

    If it’s better it’s your reach. If it’s not, drop the post like just a hair, and see if it’s better. It could be seat position too for sure, but I believe it’s usually reach to look at first if it’s in the wrists.

    • limelight79@lemm.ee
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      3 days ago

      Oh I’m pretty sure it’s a reach issue; that’s where I was going with the talk of getting a new seat post. Everything else lines up almost perfectly. I didn’t mention that the two bikes have an almost identical geometry, within a millimeter or two in every dimension, so it was easy to compare them.

      • GrindingGears
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        3 days ago

        What about the reach on the bars though? Look that up to make sure there’s not a big difference there, before buying the seat post. The bars on my newest bike are 15mm shorter reach, so the stem is actually 10mm longer than the one I was running before.

        • limelight79@lemm.ee
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          2 days ago

          They’re actually the exact same bars and stems - both are Cannondale 3s (the new bike has newer versions with different graphics, but the length/angle/reach/drop/sweep/etc is identical). When I put the bikes next to each other and rotated the bars on the new bike to match the old, it was like I was seeing double for a moment. The component groups are slightly different - the CAAD12 has an Ultegra Di2 R8050 group, while the SSEvo has a mechanical R7020 hydraulic disc setup with the huge reservoirs - but the distance from the back of the bars to the curve in the brake hoods is identical, too.

          There are occasionally advantages to being a Cannondale nut. ;) (I also have an old R500-ish model built on the 2.8 frame from the early 90s with a custom paint job, back when they were made in Pennsylvania. I know these frames have little to do with that one, even though the CAAD12 is a descendant of the the 2.8. But I inexplicably like Cannondale. There’s no sane reason for it. My gravel bike is a steel Velo Orange, though, so I’m not completely nuts.)

          You did make me think of something, though: I’ll double check that the angle of the bars is the same. It’s possible I made the new bike’s angle too low by accident. That would certainly contribute to this issue.

          I actually already ordered the seat post. and it’s on the way. :) Given the extremely similar geometry of the two frames, I assumed I would need it when I bought the bike. I thought I might avoid it when I saw how much adjustment the saddle had, but after the first ride, I was convinced that I’m going to need the post. If nothing else, it’ll give me more adjustability in the saddle position than I have now (the saddle is all the way forward, so the only adjustments available make the reach longer) and save a little weight.

          As similar as the two frames are, the saddles are completely different. The CAAD12 has a Specialized Power Arc saddle that I got during the fit. The Evo has a Selle SMP Dynamic Saddle. The latter is longer than the Power Arc, so it’s hard to compare the two for position. If I measure from the nose, which is what’s given in my fit report, I don’t get the same effective reach. I tried to use the rear of the saddle to line them up, but that obviously hasn’t worked. I’m hoping the SMP saddle works for me; if not, I’ll get another Power Arc saddle for the SSEvo. (I intend to keep both bikes long term.)

          • GrindingGears
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            2 days ago

            Definitely check the angle. Even having those hoods mounted down the curve a few more mm can knock everything out. These friggin road bikes lol.

            Sounds like you have it roughly figured out though.