I like to drink Body Armor when I’m cycling or riding my motorcycle on a hot day.

I actually do customer support for a faxing service. You’d be amazed how widely used it is still.

The mesh ends up being pretty similar every time, showing that the right side of the bed is lower than the left. The concern is that, when printing after auto leveling, the nozzle is far too close on the right side, causing first layer issues, but all is well on the left. It’s almost like the printer believes that the nozzle is further from the bed than it actually is, but only on one side.

I found that the bolts holding the gantry to the base had come loose slightly, and tightened them. That seemed to help a bit, but the issue is still there. I was going to try leveling the x gantry, but I’m still trying to figure out how to do so.

I did some research and was able to pull the mesh. I put it into a visualizer and found that the right side is definitely incorrect (as it matches with the “too low” behavior that I’m seeing. I tried to copy the image here, but Sync won’t let me, but here’s the values.

 0        1        2        3        4        5        6        7        8        9       10       11       12
 0 +0.03500 -0.02855 -0.09156 -0.15566 -0.22250 -0.29867 -0.38125 -0.45758 -0.51500 -0.54590 -0.55844 -0.56363 -0.57250
 1 +0.01869 -0.01856 -0.05355 -0.09305 -0.14383 -0.21602 -0.30324 -0.38746 -0.45064 -0.48415 -0.49888 -0.50610 -0.51707
 2 +0.00234 -0.00695 -0.01215 -0.02553 -0.05938 -0.12765 -0.22023 -0.31329 -0.38297 -0.41951 -0.43676 -0.44629 -0.45969
 3 -0.01393 +0.00144 +0.02248 +0.03217 +0.01352 -0.05072 -0.14723 -0.24723 -0.32193 -0.36066 -0.37977 -0.39103 -0.40621
 4 -0.03000 +0.00178 +0.04016 +0.06533 +0.05750 -0.00240 -0.09922 -0.20143 -0.27750 -0.31633 -0.33563 -0.34711 -0.36250
 5 -0.04428 -0.00747 +0.03596 +0.06615 +0.06324 +0.00837 -0.08337 -0.18082 -0.25285 -0.28864 -0.30564 -0.31512 -0.32836
 6 -0.05734 -0.02364 +0.01604 +0.04376 +0.04156 -0.00781 -0.09062 -0.17835 -0.24250 -0.27303 -0.28596 -0.29184 -0.30125
 7 -0.07236 -0.04528 -0.01310 +0.00888 +0.00535 -0.03877 -0.11166 -0.18823 -0.24340 -0.26810 -0.27650 -0.27838 -0.28352
 8 -0.09250 -0.07094 -0.04500 -0.02781 -0.03250 -0.07238 -0.13719 -0.20465 -0.25250 -0.27246 -0.27719 -0.27582 -0.27750
 9 -0.11980 -0.10205 -0.08041 -0.06654 -0.07207 -0.10913 -0.16849 -0.22982 -0.27275 -0.28955 -0.29183 -0.28831 -0.28770
10 -0.15219 -0.13878 -0.12196 -0.11197 -0.11906 -0.15424 -0.20929 -0.26559 -0.30453 -0.31884 -0.31920 -0.31399 -0.31156
11 -0.18660 -0.17777 -0.16597 -0.16010 -0.16902 -0.20270 -0.25387 -0.30559 -0.34092 -0.35300 -0.35165 -0.34493 -0.34090
12 -0.22000 -0.21563 -0.20875 -0.20688 -0.21750 -0.24949 -0.29656 -0.34348 -0.37500 -0.38473 -0.38156 -0.37324 -0.36750

The bed leveling is done with the bed and nozzle preheated to printing temp. As for the probe, it’s the stock probe on the Ender 3 Max Neo.

The interesting part is the heat soak. I typically heat it and then only wait a minute or two. I’ll let it sit for a while and try again.

How do you edit, or even view, the map that’s built?

Kriega makes great bags! I use a US-20 Drybag from them and absolutely love it. Easy to put on and take off of my KLR and I’d trust it to keep anything dry. It’s also easy to move around to other bikes, especially if you get an extra set of straps.

Maybe Eminem’s “Shake That?”

This happens to me with Xbox controllers randomly. 90% of the time they work, but then I randomly need to re-pair, reboot the Deck, toggle Bluetooth (any of these make it work again), or grab a different controller.

That’s what I imagined I’d see or hear and I’m not seeing any of that. I’ll take a closer look again though now that I know for sure. Thanks!

Not that I’m aware of as I don’t hear any odd noise from the extruder or see marks on the filament. I’m new to this though so I probably don’t know what to look for. What told you that yours was slipping?

I played around with retraction a bit, but I’ll give that another shot. Thanks for the input.

It seems to be randomly within a layer rather than at the start and changes to retraction don’t seem to improve it. Oddly enough, I’m noticing on a more recent print that it seems to happen more frequently within supports (generated by Cura), which I think are printed faster.

I’ll try drying the filament. All of my Creality filament is from Amazon, where as the Inland stuff is all from my local Micro Center. I wonder if the filament from Amazon is just sitting around for a while, or in poor conditions.

There’s a test pad on the PCB labeled “LT” (left trigger). I used that and compared it’s resistance to ground to that of the right trigger’s test pad. I got about 6-10k ohms on the working one (right trigger), and 3.9-4.4 on this one.

It has 3 pins, and I found that it’s a linear (B), 10k ohm (130, as you said), potentiometer. I found similar ones, but the 9 and 5 at the top concern me. The others that I found have a 60 and a 6 there instead.

I mostly do my own work, but whenever I do take my car to the local Mazda dealer, they always provide a full inspection report as well as a video of the tech checking everything and explaining anything that they’ve found. Even when my wife takes her car in for only basic maintenance (it’s still under warranty so we take it in for oil changes), they do the same thing and don’t charge anything extra.

Same dealer network owns the local Ford dealer and I ended up taking my old Fiesta ST there for an oil change as I didn’t have the space to do it myself at the time. $45 for an oil change and tire rotation, and I got the same inspection report and video.

A while ago, there was something that showed the higher failure rate of various components on EVs because of the lack of routine service that has cars have. Basically, gas cars get a service and inspection every 5-10k miles when the oil is changed and any worn bearings, bushings, etc. are found. EVs don’t have that so things go unnoticed until they fail. Could this be the same? Could the “reliability” concerns just be normal wear that isn’t getting caught since there are no routing inspections?

Where did you get the driver for it?

Damn. Oh well. Good to know though. Thanks!

This is interesting as I’m looking for the opposite answer. I want my Deck to wake up when I turn on my Xbox controller, but it doesn’t right now unless I wake it up with the power button first. If you find something outside of this thread, please let me know.