cross-posted from: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/8959162
I had a rod that was threaded on one half and smooth on the other half. I needed the smooth half to be installed into brick.
method 1: chemical anchor
The normal way to do this (I think) would be to cut some grooves into the rod using an angle grinder, drill a hole that has a diameter that’s ~2mm bigger than the rod, and use chemical anchoring. But that stuff is pricey and only lasts ~1 year on the shelf. Thus cost ineffective for 1 use.
method 2: ad hoc chemical anchor substitute
Similar to the above, I wonder if general 2-component household epoxy would work as a substitute in the above method since people are more likely to have that on-hand. I suspect the issue is that it’s too thin and gravity would do its thing and the topmost area would not get filled with epoxy. Hence why I did not attempt it.
method 3: (What I did)
The rod measured at ø=8.8mm. I had no 9mm drill bit for masonry (and that would be too loose anyway). So I used a nominal 8mm masonry bit on a hammer drill. I’m not sure what the actual diameter of that hole was, but it was too tight to push in the 8.8mm rod in by hand. So I tapped it in, dry (no oil or glues). It worked! It feels really solid. Feels like I got away with murder.
Questions
(method 2) Is there something could be mixed with common 2-component household epoxy to thicken it so it acts more like chemical anchor epoxy?
(method 3) Did I take bad risk with fracturing the brick? Is there perhaps a guide somewhere that safely maps brick hole diameter to metal rod diameter? Or is this something is never done and should never be done?
Red brick or cinder block? What are you trying to suspend?
Old red brick, which is solid. It’s light duty, and unusual. I cut a bicycle axle bolt in half, and embedded it in the brick so there is a bicycle sprocket on the wall. Then a chain runs to another sprocket, which turns a shaft that goes all the way though the wall to the other side, where it connects to a right-angle gearbox, which attaches to a water valve. But it’s lightweight overall… just the weight of a sprocket, chain, and a small decorative wood thing out of wood to serve as a handle. I suppose you’re sorry you asked at this point.
Interesting sounding project. Is functional or art?
Both… functional art.
The original problem is that there was a water shut-off valve for the whole floor in the shower. Very ugly to have a valve in the corner on the floor and somewhat in the path of the water if someone were to point the showerhead slightly outside the pan. The valve handle was rusting. It was embedded in a solid block of concrete with the handle sticking out. The valve started to fail (did not completely shut off the water). And it was the kind of valve where the whole valve needed to be replaced. Terrible work by the builders. I had to demolish the concrete to reach the valve.
So I replaced the valve with the kind of valve that has a replaceable cartridge. But I also refused to embed it in concrete again. I will build a removable sealed box around it. But the box could not be both waterproof and also easily removable on the fly whenever the valve needs to be accessed. So I put a hole in the wall (shower to bedroom). Then I attached a 90° gearbox drill accessory and a shaft to that goes through the wall. On the bedroom side, I could have just put a handle. But I found a wood helm to a ship (miniaturized). I thought that would be the perfect steampunkish valve handle. But it did not clear the wall (in a corner). So i got carried away and put a bicycle sprocket on the shaft, and mounted the helm to another sprocket, which i attached to the wall higher up. And wrapped a chain between them.
Epoxy seems too thin to me and would just leak everywhere. I would have tried some expanding foam. It’s pretty cheap, you could put the rod in while it’s still setting, and the extra that flows out of the hole could be cut off easily to be flush with the wall. In my experience it’s thick enough that it wouldn’t all flow out before setting too
Does your use case require the use of a chemical anchor? Friction anchors are also common. Whether you risk fracture may depend on the system as a whole, so you may want to provide some additional details to help get more confident guidance. Good luck!!
Is this a friction anchor?
https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/pictrs/image/f504ebc8-a015-4b7a-907d-85eabdfc260a.webp
I just learned these exist from the other thread. Though I doubt it would have helped in my case. At this point I’ll just have to check it over the seasons and see if temp changes have caused any issues.
I was mainly asking for future reference whether I should repeat what I did or not. I suppose it’s rare that a smooth rod needs to be installed on brick.
EDIT: looks like the link died due to the comment containing that image being deleted. Sorry about that.
For mechanical fasteners thag don’t require any bonding / achesives red heads are what I’ve always used. They also have special screws, all of these I have no problem recomend\ing. The only advantage I can think one of the redheads might have over your current (working) solution is if you used a a threaded sleeve type to allow the “axle”? to be removeable. I’ve used these types for bolting tool stands like metal tube be benders to the floor of my garage. Allows me to have multiple tool mounts that are removeable - lasted 10+years without any issues.
I appreciate the tip. The shank was ½ a bicycle axle bolt with non-standard threading. I could not have switched to a standard bolt because the nuts that interface to ball bearings needed to be on the bolt.
Good to hear your anchors held up over 10 years. Someone else just mentioned they’ve not bee so lucky: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/comment/5372639 I suppose it’s important that they be used in a dry climate.
