https://imgur.com/a/oXQJArS I’m hoping you guys can help me figure this out. I have an ender 3 pro, running on marlin firmware. Every time I try to print something one of the corners will lift up like that and ruin the entire print. I installed a crtouch to help with leveling, installed upgraded metal bed wheels to help it not fall out of level. Even tried a glass bed with glue and it still does the same thing. I used a filament dryer and have a heat enclosure. I’m starting to run out of ideas on how to fix this. Any suggestions? The pic is how it starts and that was just a brim since I used to always use a raft and thought I should try that instead.

  • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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    2 days ago

    So I gave it another try with the black filament after doing some additional adjustments and was still getting the same issues. I then swapped to a brighter filament so that I could get a better picture and now it’s laying perfectly flat. I’ll let it continue printing to see if any other issues pop up, but it’s weird that one filament was lifting but an older spool works fine.

    • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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      2 days ago

      Gave it some time to print and unfortunately it lifted up again. Going to wait for the thermometer to come in and see if that corner is heating properly

  • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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    2 days ago

    So I gave it another try with the black filament after doing some additional adjustments and was still getting the same issues. I then swapped to a brighter filament so that I could get a better picture and now it’s laying perfectly flat. I’ll let it continue printing to see if any other issues pop up, but it’s weird that one filament was lifting but an older spool works fine.

  • fahfahfahfah@lemmy.billiam.net
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    3 days ago

    You can try turning up the bed temp, lowering the z-offset to get the nozzle closer on the first layer, or increasing the first layer flow in your slicer. For me the purple glue sticks on a glass bed worked, but sounds like that’s not working for you for whatever reason.

    Another trick I’ve seen people use is adding some circles to hard corners like that in the model that you can cut off later.

    • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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      3 days ago

      I’ll need to figure out how to make the mouse ears that everyone suggests. I haven’t actually made my own models before and the brim is automatically made with the creality slicer. I tried cura as well but that was doing weird things with the print if I recall so I went back to the creality one. If I can’t figure it out on there, I’ll see if cura gives me more options for that. Thanks for the info

          • IceBear@lemmy.world
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            3 days ago

            The creality slicer also has a brim option called mouse ears, but I haven’t tried it out myself, so not sure how well it works. Also, there is an option to bring in basic shapes that you can then adjust the size of within the slicer too. That way you don’t have to find an stl of a disk, you can just bring in a basic shape in the slicer if you’d prefer

      • DABDA@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        3 days ago

        There’s also a few plugins for Cura with variations on the name TabAntiWarping. I’ve had https://github.com/5axes/TabAntiWarping installed forever but I’m not sure if I’ve ever actually used it in a print. I just took a quick look and there’s a couple others listed in the marketplace now too.

    • WaffleStomper@lemmy.world
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      3 days ago

      I had a similar problem on my Neptune 4 Max, and the solution was actually to lower the bed temperature by about 5 degrees C.

  • HelloRoot@lemy.lol
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    3 days ago

    Because nobody said it yet: wash your bed with warm water and soap to remove any residue (especially oily fingerprints)

    • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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      3 days ago

      I have washed it a couple times and was getting the same results. I’ll try again just in case.

      • squaresinger@lemmy.world
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        2 days ago

        Better solution than water and soap: Clean it using isopropyl alcohol on a clean rag (no paper tissues). Works much, much better.

        • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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          2 days ago

          The last time I cleaned it I used 99% isopropyl alcohol, hoping to get a good clean on it with no luck. I’ll try using a lower percent next to see if that changes anything

          • thisbenzingring@lemmy.sdf.org
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            2 days ago

            get a box of the alcohol prep wipes, they wont leave residue and you can one and done them while taking away the almost invisible film that will build up after a few uses

            • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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              2 days ago

              I have a box already but never thought of trying those out. Thanks for the tip!

    • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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      2 days ago

      I’m using pla. I know my printer had something about a mesh in the settings but I don’t think I’ve used it, I should read up on it to see if it actually is set up to do that. The brim is what’s actually lifting off.

  • Imgonnatrythis@sh.itjust.works
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    3 days ago

    If PETg (which is where I’ve most commonly had warping), make sure Filament is very well dried. Try both raising or lowering bed temps and bigger brim.

    Also, for funsies, try rotating print orientation 45 degrees if you can. Might shift stress away from corners to sides.

    • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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      3 days ago

      I might also try changing how the print sits on the bed to make it print more like a diamond instead of a square shape, since it’s always one of the back corners that start the lifting. Not actually sure it that would help but who knows

      • marcos@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        it’s always one of the back corners

        If it’s always in the same orientation, it also can be caused by cold wind. Look at your enclosure ventilation, or try putting an obstacle there if there isn’t an enclosure.

  • neclimdul@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    Cleaning is a good suggestion. I’d start there.

    Also, that kind of looks like the cheap black textured plates that come with some printers. I thought the people talking about pei sheets were over-hyping but honestly they are really much better. It’s not a silver bullet but pla sticks soooo much better to them.

    For pla it’s overkill, but for tricky stuff build adhesive can help. I had good luck with vision miner. It’s expensive but it’s been buy once, cry once because it has lasted a really long time.

    • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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      3 days ago

      I’ll definitely take a look at the pei sheets, that’s the first I’ve heard of it. Thanks for the suggestion!

  • MrEC@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    What kind of filament are you using? I’ve had that trouble with ABS before and what worked for me was making a slurry of acetone and some scrap filament and painting it on the glass then adding a brim to the model in the slicer. With other filaments, it’s always been playing with the temps and using a brim in my experience.

    • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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      3 days ago

      I use pla or pla+. I’ve played around with the temps but usually to a higher temp. I’ve seen some suggest a lower temp so I’ll give that a try and see if it helps

    • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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      3 days ago

      The picture is actually the brim of the print. It hadn’t actually gotten to the first layer yet. I’ll have to figure out how to do the mouse ears since that seems to be a common suggestion.

      • herrvogel@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        Some slicers can add mouse ears automatically along edges where it’d be likely to lift up. I believe it’s been a feature in orca and its derivatives for some time. Otherwise you can add very thin, single layer cylinders to the corners. Most slicers out there have features to let you add common primitives like that.

        • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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          3 days ago

          I’ll see if the either of the slicers I use have that feature. If not I’ll check out orca

  • dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    Given all you’ve tried I can only conjecture that this may be a print temperature issue, especially since you already tried adhesive. What material are you printing, and at what temperatures for nozzle and bed?

    You may also find that your printer’s sensors are not reporting temperature accurately. Mine sure isn’t and never has, at least on the bed, and it consistently reads about 5 degrees high versus reality if you poke the surface with an external temperature probe. This isn’t a big deal only so long as you know to compensate for it. The thermal conductivity of whatever your print bed material is may also force you to compensate, i.e. a glass plate will not perform the same as a steel one and may require a boost of a few degrees and/or allowing it to cook longer during the preheating phase before you start your print.

    I print on a sheet of cheap Kapton tape with a later of even cheaper hairspray on it (Aqua Net, if you must know), “65” °C bed temp for PLA (60 in reality) with a first layer temp of 215 for regular PLA, and 210 for “rapid” PLA blends. My sharp corners stay put.

    • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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      3 days ago

      I’m using pla, I didn’t think about the temps being wrong though. I usually heat it to 200C and 65C respectively. I’ll have to get an external thermometer to check that out

  • fulcrummed@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    From my relatively lesser experience I can suggest a couple of easy things to cross off your list.

    • look at first layer thickness, not sure how thick you’re going but thicker material is more likely to stick and stay put.
    • reduce cooling (eg fan speed) in the first couple layers to promote adhesion
    • as others have said, clean your print bed, I’m a fan of isopropyl.
    • increase bed temp by 5°C
    • slow your first layer(s) further.

    I am certainly no expert- these would be my first ports of call before I start praying to the google-fu gods.

  • CIA_chatbot@lemmy.world
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    2 days ago

    ~~ haven’t seen anyone mention this somehow, but this is most likely caused by a draft hitting that part of the print and causing it to cool at a different speed than the rest. Easy test, get a big cardboard box and put it over the printer and redo the print. You might need to invest in a cheap printer enclosure ~~

    Edit: never mind I totally missed the part where you mentioned you had a heat enclosure

  • spitfire@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    What is the (approximate) ambient temperature of the room it’s being printed in? Are there drafts (wind)? Have you tried cleaning the plate and then using glue (which shouldn’t even be needed for PLA)?

    • anguo@piefed.ca
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      3 days ago

      This really doesn’t look flat enough for a brim. Is your nozzle close enough to the bed?

      • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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        3 days ago

        I did level it using paper and using the crtouch. I’m not sure how I could get it any closer

        • ffhein@lemmy.world
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          Paper levelling is not an exact method, you might need to manually adjust the Z offset depending on how the first layer looks. It’s also something you generally don’t need to do if you have a probe like crtouch, as it will be used to ensure that the nozzle is at a consistent distance from the bed everywhere, and the Z offset will decide how big that distance should be. Just be careful when adjusting the Z offset so you don’t end up ramming the nozzle into the bed, make small adjustments. If you put a lamp behind the printer you can visually check if the nozzle touches the bed, e.g. if you manually move the nozzle to 0.2mm height after adjusting Z offset, can be good to do a manual check before starting a full print.

          Unfortunately your photos are too blurry to give feedback, but if you want to you could try this: Print only the first layer for something simple and stop the print. Get a couple of strong lamps and put them next to your printer. Move the camera as close to the print as it can focus, could be around 20cm for a phone camera. Steady the camera against something solid, for example a stack of books.

          If you want to keep trying to level on your own, perhaps this infographic could help. SuperSlicer has a built in calibration wizard which might also be useful.

          And some general questions which might help troubleshooting your issue:

          • What kind of glue did you use? AFAIK it should have high PVA content, otherwise it might not do much.
          • How fast are you printing? Both first layer and rest of print. Printing too fast can lead to warping.
          • What nozzle size? Larger nozzles requires can require even slower speeds to avoid exceeding the hotend’s melting capacity.
          • Have you modified flow rate multiplier (slicer setting) or e-steps (printer firmware setting)?
        • anguo@piefed.ca
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          3 days ago

          Its honestly really hard to tell with this picture. If you send a better-lit picture of a brim using a lighter-colored filament, we might be able to provide better help!

          But something definitely looks off. It looks very thick and very uneven to me, but I also have no real sense of scale with this picture.

          In any case, if this is your brim, the mouse ears and other similar proposed solutions won’t change anything.

          • thisbenzingring@lemmy.sdf.org
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            2 days ago

            did you get it figured out yet? Adhesion is bad there, maybe you can move it to a different place in on the bed in the slicer? did you try giving your bed a good dish soap wash and then wipe it with alcohol?

            or add a 10 level skirt to trap more heat?

            I have heard of people using painting tape to stick it to the bed when doing long prints that start coming up like that but that is lame

            if thats an endor, do you have a glass sheet you can try printing on?

            • Silfeed@fedia.ioOP
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              2 days ago

              I’m working on it right now to try out some of the suggestions people have given me. I’m waiting on a thermometer to come in so I can make sure my printer is giving accurate temps. I’ve had similar issues with the glass as I am with the magnetic, but if I can’t get my current test to work I might try again on glass. Right now I figured out how to get mouse ears on the corners so I’m giving that a shot. I have cleaned it a few times already but maybe I used too high of a percent on the ipa so I’ll try again with a lower percent.