I picked up a piece of hardwood that was 5/8 inch thick. Just measure the gap under your door so you know how tall the threshold can be. I went with a 3.5 inch width to cover the floor’s expansion gap with room to spare. I just cut that down to the width of the door. Then I used a router to put a 45 degree chamfer on all 4 sides.
The 45 degree angle goes down about half way, I just ran a scrap piece through the router and progressively raised the bit until the angle felt right, then did it on the final one.
Gave it a light sanding to remove any splinters and then I just stained it to match the floor and used a rubber mallet to get it in place. It’s pressure fit, so it’s a little tight to hold it in place. Some people opt to screw them into the floor below instead.
Dropping a few brads/nails into it to hold it into place is a good idea. As time goes by, wear and expansion/contraction of the flooring will have it popping out.
I picked up an airgun to put in 2 1/2" finishing brads on the floors I did (engineered hickory). Turned the air pressure up to the maximum the gun was rated for (150psi) and sunk the brads into the board
I also hope you did 5+ coats or so of polyurethane or shellac on it. Jams tend to take a beating. The slight rise means that everything hits them. I had to learn that one the hard way.
That was my issue too! With the floor’s expansion gap, it needed to cover about 2-2.5 inches in width. Everything in that range was more for industrial or exterior use. The S4S oak plank I used was $16, with pre-made thresholds being $25+. Of course, tooling is a limitation. You’d at least need access to a router to make this.
Very nice! How did you go about it?
I picked up a piece of hardwood that was 5/8 inch thick. Just measure the gap under your door so you know how tall the threshold can be. I went with a 3.5 inch width to cover the floor’s expansion gap with room to spare. I just cut that down to the width of the door. Then I used a router to put a 45 degree chamfer on all 4 sides.
The 45 degree angle goes down about half way, I just ran a scrap piece through the router and progressively raised the bit until the angle felt right, then did it on the final one.
Gave it a light sanding to remove any splinters and then I just stained it to match the floor and used a rubber mallet to get it in place. It’s pressure fit, so it’s a little tight to hold it in place. Some people opt to screw them into the floor below instead.
Dropping a few brads/nails into it to hold it into place is a good idea. As time goes by, wear and expansion/contraction of the flooring will have it popping out.
I picked up an airgun to put in 2 1/2" finishing brads on the floors I did (engineered hickory). Turned the air pressure up to the maximum the gun was rated for (150psi) and sunk the brads into the board
That’s a good idea, thanks!
I also hope you did 5+ coats or so of polyurethane or shellac on it. Jams tend to take a beating. The slight rise means that everything hits them. I had to learn that one the hard way.
I’m curious about this too, I’ve been trying to find an aluminum threshold I can modify but this might be easier.
That was my issue too! With the floor’s expansion gap, it needed to cover about 2-2.5 inches in width. Everything in that range was more for industrial or exterior use. The S4S oak plank I used was $16, with pre-made thresholds being $25+. Of course, tooling is a limitation. You’d at least need access to a router to make this.
It could be done with a saw and a block plane.
I’ve been looking for an excuse to buy one for a while.