In December, the New York Times reported that a company called DocGo, which had won a no-bid contract to provide a range of services, was throwing away thousands of meals a day. Migrants have complained that DocGo’s food is moldy and inedible. Many in the restaurant industry have stepped in to help feed these people, some continuing or building on work and networks developed during the pandemic. One of these restaurateurs is Beatrice Ajaero, who runs the West African takeout shop Nneji in Astoria. We spoke with her about her work feeding asylum seekers and other migrants, how she thinks about food access, and making meals that can speak to multiple cultures.

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