Every single freewheel does this, and it’s not an issue.

The freewheel bearings don’t line up exactly with the wheel bearings. This is always the case to some degree, because the interface between freewheel and hub is a non-precision thread.

It might look weird when freewheeling, but once you put use the pedals, freewheel and hub are rotating together, negating this wobble.

If you can wait a couple weeks, AliExpress is going to be the cheapest.

eBay may be a bit more expensive, but it’s often my go-to because you can find everything and usually there are options with short shipping times.

For not too obscure parts, I would look at Reichelt, their prices are surprisingly low (especially if you bundle your orders to save on shipping costs).

Can you get a big flathead screwdriver in there to carefully knock it out? It should allow you to get a better angle than the dedicated tool.

Go slowly and alternate the places you’re putting the end of the screw driver. You want to push the cup out evenly, or it will jam and possibly deform the head tube.

HiPER Calc Pro. A great scientific calculator I use constantly. (There is also a unpaid, ad-supported version, and the ads weren’t too intrusive the last time I tried it)

That’s probably not a bad idea, although I doubt it will make much of a difference. But since you’re redesigning the whole thing, might as well do it.

It looks like you would want an even airflow through the whole PSU. The main heat-generating components are using the sides of the housing as a heat sink. I’m guessing the fan is mostly so the air inside the housing doesn’t get too warm, not to cool individual components.

Where is the original air exhaust? If it’s near the bottom of the picture, that would confirm my theory. In that case, I would keep the fan placement as close to original as possible (i.e. the blue square).

You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.

Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.

So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it’s off. But when it’s turned on, the battery charge will still drop.

Sure, the skull is biodegradable. But didn’t you know that large-scale human farming is responsible for the vast majority of CO2 emissions?!

Thanks for breaking it down for me! I think I’ll stick with the B650 motherboard for now.

Right, I guess I assumed CPU naming makes sense, so surely the lower number CPU must be worse in every way, right?😜

Looks like going with the 7700X is a no-brainer for me then.

As for your upgrade recommendations: Can you explain the benefits of a higher-end mainboard? I would think the mainboard shouldn’t make a huge difference, as long as it’s from a reputable manufacturer and compatible with all the other parts.

Thanks for your help!

Right, I might just see what cooler I can get second-hand. Thanks for your input!

This seems to be a bug in the slicer. I’m seeing the same issue in OrcaSlicer if the skirt height is set to more than one layer (even if the skirt is disabled). This makes sense if a skirt is used (can’t print a continuous spiral if you have to switch between printing the object and the skirt), but not if it’s disabled.

What slicer are you using? If it’s a PrusaSlicer fork, this is likely the same bug.

It looks to me like a JST SH connector: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10357

Measure the distance between the two pins - if it is 1 mm, this is most likely the connector you’re looking for.

From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the “dead time control” pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that’s the closest function to “over current protection” this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don’t need to use them at all.

My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.

I haven’t worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.

You can bring the resting position of the brake lever closer to the handlebar by turning this screw clockwise. The brake lever looks a bit short for my taste, it’s probably not designed for use with that type of shifter. But with a bit of adjustment it should still be usable.

Do you expect every meme to be meticulously handcrafted? It’s a stupid joke, not a work of art.

Close, but the word ends in -le, not -ie. The -le suffix is used as a diminutive form in some German dialects.

A small pair of vernier calipers. I don’t use them a lot, but sometimes they come in very handy.

If that freehub is constructed like the ones I’ve taken apart before, you’re out of luck. Like you suspected, the teeth lock the rotation of the freehub to the hub, unless the screw in the back is taken out first.

You can try hammering in a (slightly larger) torx key or using an easy-out (probably won’t work if it’s very tight).
As a last resort, you could try to drill out the screw (only so far that the freehub comes off, you don’t want to drill into the hub). Then you should hopefully be left with enough left of screw to grab with a pipe wrench.

Unfortunately, this might not be easy to find a solution for. The larger thread size doesn’t seem to be a standard bike pedal thread, so finding a specific adapter is probably not possible.

Another solution might be to use some kind of threaded inserts in the cranks (this would probably require drilling the cranks out for a larger thread). But the standard pedal thread of 9/16-20 is not widely used anywhere else, so finding the inserts (let alone a left-handed ones is probably next to impossible.