Try the Lotus 58. You get a bit more options over all.

Only thing to note is to check qmk docs if the screens controller is supported by default. If it is, it’s easy. If not it takes more work.

Yes you can. But you have to address the rgbs as a true matrix which is a fair bit more work.

I just used all my budget on prototypes. Sigh.

And the cap on the port extends another .5-1” when in place. Which means it’s sitting below the surface of the other things as is, but add .5” and it now becomes level with a few things. And level is by far enough for the cap to grab, twist and pull out. And when it does, you’re done riding for a while.

And instead of replacing the tip of the oil cap and the outer cases, you end up with a damaged block. Much more expensive.

A far better idea is to have a tool, admittedly not in every man’s possession, but tilt the bike away, remove the cap, and thread in. Tilt the bike back and you have a little spout. Clean, simple and easy. These are available for just about every manufacturers cap size and thread.

Cool thanks!

No, this is not asshole design. If the oil port was sticking further out, it’s gets knocked off if you lay the bike down. And then you have no oil at all, and a blown up motor.

It’s by good design the oil port is recessed. Yes it’s annoying to use a funnel, but it’s the preferable option.

Well the problem with that is when you lay the bike down, the oil port gets shaved off and you lose all your oil. Don’t ask me how I know.

So yeah, it’s a PITA to use a funnel, but it’s still the preferable option.

What am I missing, how is this done?

Lemmy.world was having mayor issues today, so not surprising if something broke.

Actually, I prefer liftoff

It should, at least as long as we are talking about choc switches on an MX spacing, or a dual footprint design, as the pin headers are spaced for that. Otherwise there will probably be interference, or very, very close to it at least.

How about this then? (No promises on signal integrity of that USB signal, we are pushing limits)

Just keep in mind, that placing the controller not at an edge, will likely make the USB port interfere with the next socket, it’s not really meant for that. Meaning you should probably de-solder the port then. Also, by powering through the 5V/GND pins, you negate the VBUS detection, and there simply aren’t enough pins/space to break that out as well, so it’s a compromise.

Exactly!

I wasn’t planning on it since sacrifices two pins.

And seeing as the USB port is available to place by the edge very easily as you can place the controller over any key.

To explain, the USB port should end up needing only 3-5 mm edge on a sandwich case, or a hollow similar to how most pcb’s place it on a CNC/3d case.

Any particular reason beyond that? I’m open to reasonable compromises.

Btw, I can easily pull them out to a pair of pads, there is space for that.

I guess an image says more than a thousand words?

That’s not he projected range shown on the display. That’s the actual range the battery will give you.

They temporarily removed a bit of the safety margin built in to reduce battery wear, allowing people to get out of harms way without a stop to charge if they were on the limit. But only for people moving away from The affected area, etc. so smart and helpful.