Hey guys, looking for advice on my first build. I’m looking forward to building a Dactyl Manuform but I’ve run into some hiccups that I seek your advice on. I apologize in advance if my English is a bit wonky.

  1. Wireless? I thought about going wireless and ordering a pair of nice!nano controllers. I assume it will be a bit easier to assemble (less components) and I can switch between devices easily, but I’ve heard it’s a bit harder to troubleshoot. Is this a good idea or should I go wired for a first build? How do I go about connecting the battery and which batteries should I look into?

  2. How to solder? Most of the Dactyl tutorials and guides I’ve come across assume some level of soldering experience and skip over some steps - I have none whatsoever but I’m a very willing self-learner. What are some good resources to learn how to do this? I’m talking basic stuff including things like where all the components go and which connect to which.

  3. Compatible switches? I’ve looked into tactile switches and loved the sound (or lack of) Gazzew Boba U4 Black Silent. Would these be compatible and a good alternative to standard cherry mx switches?

Thanks in advance for your help!

  • wjrii@kbin.social
    1·
    1 year ago

    I’ve only made one hand wired board, a 50 key flat, one piece ortho, but I learned some good lessons.

    First, the mental hurdle for me with soldering was that you’re not JUST melting the solder, nor are you trying to get the components’ leads hot enough to melt the solder, which might fry them anyway. Instead, heating the wires or leads makes them attract solder when you melt it with the iron. Once I watched enough videos to make that jump and to see how it’s done, I went from hopeless to mediocre, and mediocre is good enough to make a keyboard. Maybe I’m just thick, but my general takeaway is that anyone can learn this.

    Second, most MCUs have the port on them already. Unless you were talking about having the two halves not connect to each other, then there’s no component or labor savings in going wireless. I also was able to use KMK on a pi pico for my MCU, which was a godsend for me as someone who doesn’t code in any meaningful way.

    Finally, If there’s any way your plate (maybe more of a “bowl” for a manuform, lol) and case can physically support it, consider soldering to Kailh hot swap sockets rather than switches. My little “Planck+3” board is not true hot swap, but it should be no-solder swap if I want to change the switches.