I believe so. The package descriptions for most of the ZFS packages in Ubuntu mention OpenZFS, so it certainly appears that way.
You can still create pools that are compatible with Oracle Solaris, you just have to set the pool version to 28 or older when you create it and obviously don’t update it. That will prevent you from using any of the newer features that have been added since the fork.
Well worse than that, Oracle closed sourced ZFS, so OpenZFS was forced to become a fork, and they are no longer compatible with each other.
As for GPL the CDDL license that ZFS uses made sure that code contributions attribute copyright to the project owners, which means they can change the license as they please without having to track down contributors.
You would think with their investments in Oracle Linux and btrfs they would welcome that license change, but apparently they need excuses to keep putting money into Solaris, and their Oracle ZFS appliances instead.
One nice thing about KDE compared to most of the other DEs is that the window manager (kwin) is separate from the underlying components, and it can be replaced!
There are many walkthroughs like this one out there: https://github.com/heckelson/i3-and-kde-plasma
You get i3 for tiling window management but you still get to use KDE’s system settings to do configuration like display settings, themes keyboard shortcuts, etc, just like you did before. You can also pick and choose which parts of the KDE desktop you want to keep (menu, krunner, etc)
Since i3 is just a window manager and is lacking all of that system level stuff it really rounds out i3 to feel like a full DE instead of having to piece together other tools to do those things.
It’s presumably to give you legal ground to sue if some corporation scrapes Lemmy content and uses it to train AI, or whatever other commercial purpose.
Hopefully if enough people do it they would consider the dataset too risky to use. They could try and parse out comments that have that license statement but if any get missed somehow they open themselves up to lawsuits.
That would force them to instead pay for content from somewhere that has a EULA forcing the users to hand over copyright regardless of what they put in their posts (i.e. Reddit).
Assuming you mean hot plugged devices (thumb drives and external drives) KDE mounts them under /media
If you are expecting them to auto mount, KDE distros often don’t have that enabled by default. Though I think Kubuntu has that enabled by default now so maybe that has changed. Go to System Settings -> Hardware -> Removable Devices to adjust the automount settings defaults and per drive settings.
If you don’t have automount enabled you probably will need to browse to them in Dolphin once to get KDE to mount the drive first.
There is a free fan made remake of the shooter. https://totemarts.games/games/renegade-x/
Unfortunately while EA seems fine with them distributing this as long as it is free, they won’t allow them to put it on Steam.
I haven’t played it in a couple of years so I don’t know if there are still active servers but it is a very good remake.
That probably would work well for those closer to the equator.
But for those in the 100 minutes zone of this map that would mean going to work at 6:30am in the summer (assuming we are using civil twilight as “sunrise”), and 9:30AM in the winter which is much more of a swing than daylight savings puts on us, but at least it is a gradual one.
For those above the Arctic Circle, they just work 24/7 for a couple of weeks in the summer but get a similar time off in the winter ;)
Digitizer issues are usually from getting the wrong digitizer. They are programmed differently for the HAC-001(-01) (v2 classic switch) vs the HAC-001 (v1 classic switch).
More specifically the game card reader board that the digitizer plugs into needs to match. So make sure you buy your digitizer to match the game card reader version, or buy a game card reader to go with it (you can get them for ~$14). Unfortunately many digitizer sellers on eBay don’t say which model it is designed for.
Alternatively you can mix and match those versions if you have an unpatched/modded switch. Just launch Hekate, go to tools and run the digitizer calibration.
I haven’t repaired too many switches but the first time it happened to me I had a spare v2 game card reader and that fixed it immediately. Second time I used the Hekate method and that worked just as well
I recently bought a used switch from eBay which didn’t come with Joy-Cons as a gift for someone else. Took my OLED’s Joy-Cons and popped them on to test while I was waiting for the new Joy-Cons to arrive…
Well little did I know there was something sticky that had gotten on the contacts of this used switch, which then transferred to the Joy-Cons. I of course plugged them back into my OLED trying to figure out what was going on and transferred enough of whatever it was to my OLED to start causing problems as well.
Long story short it doesn’t take much to break that contact.
If you have an original switch and the right tools to open it up (needs a tri-wing screw driver), it is pretty easy to open it up, remove the contacts from the rail and thoroughly clean them. Worked perfectly to get the used switch back to brand new.
Of course don’t forget to do the same on the contacts of the Joy-Cons They need the same tri-wing screwdriver to open.
The OLED is a bit more of a PITA to get the rails out, so if you have an OLED or don’t have the tools to open your original you can make a makeshift cleaner like this person did (sorry about the reddit link). Joy-Con Rail Contact Cleaning Tool
I used a much smaller cable tie so that I could fit some isopropyl dipped gauze around the tip to get into the contacts (power off your switch entirely first!!!).
Careful on the Joy-Cons if you try to use something like that tool. The Joy-Cons are the spring side of the contact so you could easily bend them and make things worse.
If you have problems with stick drift and feel comfortable opening them up, you can get replacement sticks on eBay for $5-6 a piece.
This is likely something like a FIDO token/passwordless setup of some sort (i.e. Windows Hello).
The thumbprint would just unlock the hardware device, so the thumbprint itself wouldn’t need to be transmitted to your credit issuer. This gives you full two factor authentication of your identity because you need the hardware device (something you have) and your biometric (something you are). They also often allow pins (something you know) instead of biometrics as the second factor.