It’s going to take a while, you have a sizeable chunk of aluminium and while aluminium is “light” and conducts heat well, you still have thermal mass to deal with. I have a midplate thermistor on mine so it’ll take a bit longer than someone with a thermistor on the heater itself (my heater didn’t come with one so I drilled 2 holes, one for the sensor, other is tapped and is the hold down screw) I’d estimate somewhere around 10-15 to 60 and around 20 to 100. You want to give the chamber time to soak anyhow, equilibrium if you can wait, 30-45 once it reaches temp is usually good enough depending on what you’re printing.
It’s no bedslinger where it’s at temp in 5 ish minutes, but you get way better chamber temps if you wait, if I intend to print I’ll have it preheat an hour or so before I do anything, really do get better results if you’re patient though, that way everything’s nice and warmed up to minimise expansion while printing.
That’s extremely helpful, and I didn’t even expect a reply after this time.
How many watts is the heater you are using?
I’m thinking of buying a used 0.2 and I wondered if it might be fun to change to an AC bed. I read the original v0 had one but some kits were using improper solid state relays so they changed it for safety 🧐
I certainly see you the chamber heat argument for ABS 💪
Just realised I misread, sorry about that, have a v2.4 not a 0.2, I’ll talk about my machine though, sorry about that!
There’s less thermal mass on a lot of bed slingers, at least on my franken-prusa, it’s just the PCB and the build surface vs what like 3-4 kg of aluminum that’s the voron build plate.
I have a 720 w 120vac heater on mine, it’s limited to run at 60% max (There’s documentation about max heating, don’t want to warp the bed) A v0.2 will heat up faster than mine, not even sure you would get much benefit from an ac heater at that size, the prusa heated bed is perfectly capable of hitting 120c no problem on 24 vdc in 5-10 minutes, 60c is super quick, been doing a lot of PLA on it lately and it’s pretty much at print temp after a quick bed and nozzle cleaning, totally imagine a 0.2 would hit print temps super fast. Still worth a heat soak imo, but depends what you’re printing, I don’t bother with PLA, petg, just a quick preheat and then I send it.
I don’t think anyone has a v0.2 in this instance 😅
Thanks for going out of your way to answer my question, even though you can’t 🤣
I’m wanting it because I realise I do a lot of very small parts and I often want to iterate on them quickly, so a fast bed heat would be quite nice. I currently always heat soak for bed meshes and such, but I haven’t found it necessary for prints - they’re usually not that big though 🤷♂️
Do you know where I can find that documentation on max heating?
For the v2 it’s actually in the sample klipper config under heater_bed as comments.
Totally understand, I’m thinking about building a small trident or 0.2 at some point for the same reason, I very rarely use the entire bed area of the 2.4
I can see a bit about the solid state relay overheating with too much power, but that’s not the bed. Have I missed something or have you possibly misread something yourself 🤪
I don’t know how small you are thinking, but if it’s V0 size, make sure you’ve seen the “crucible” on 3dprintersforants, it looks cool 😎
It’s going to take a while, you have a sizeable chunk of aluminium and while aluminium is “light” and conducts heat well, you still have thermal mass to deal with. I have a midplate thermistor on mine so it’ll take a bit longer than someone with a thermistor on the heater itself (my heater didn’t come with one so I drilled 2 holes, one for the sensor, other is tapped and is the hold down screw) I’d estimate somewhere around 10-15 to 60 and around 20 to 100. You want to give the chamber time to soak anyhow, equilibrium if you can wait, 30-45 once it reaches temp is usually good enough depending on what you’re printing.
It’s no bedslinger where it’s at temp in 5 ish minutes, but you get way better chamber temps if you wait, if I intend to print I’ll have it preheat an hour or so before I do anything, really do get better results if you’re patient though, that way everything’s nice and warmed up to minimise expansion while printing.
Thank you 😁
That’s extremely helpful, and I didn’t even expect a reply after this time.
How many watts is the heater you are using?
I’m thinking of buying a used 0.2 and I wondered if it might be fun to change to an AC bed. I read the original v0 had one but some kits were using improper solid state relays so they changed it for safety 🧐
I certainly see you the chamber heat argument for ABS 💪
Why do bed slingers heat faster?
Just realised I misread, sorry about that, have a v2.4 not a 0.2, I’ll talk about my machine though, sorry about that!
There’s less thermal mass on a lot of bed slingers, at least on my franken-prusa, it’s just the PCB and the build surface vs what like 3-4 kg of aluminum that’s the voron build plate.
I have a 720 w 120vac heater on mine, it’s limited to run at 60% max (There’s documentation about max heating, don’t want to warp the bed) A v0.2 will heat up faster than mine, not even sure you would get much benefit from an ac heater at that size, the prusa heated bed is perfectly capable of hitting 120c no problem on 24 vdc in 5-10 minutes, 60c is super quick, been doing a lot of PLA on it lately and it’s pretty much at print temp after a quick bed and nozzle cleaning, totally imagine a 0.2 would hit print temps super fast. Still worth a heat soak imo, but depends what you’re printing, I don’t bother with PLA, petg, just a quick preheat and then I send it.
I don’t think anyone has a v0.2 in this instance 😅 Thanks for going out of your way to answer my question, even though you can’t 🤣
I’m wanting it because I realise I do a lot of very small parts and I often want to iterate on them quickly, so a fast bed heat would be quite nice. I currently always heat soak for bed meshes and such, but I haven’t found it necessary for prints - they’re usually not that big though 🤷♂️
Do you know where I can find that documentation on max heating?
For the v2 it’s actually in the sample klipper config under heater_bed as comments.
Totally understand, I’m thinking about building a small trident or 0.2 at some point for the same reason, I very rarely use the entire bed area of the 2.4
I can see a bit about the solid state relay overheating with too much power, but that’s not the bed. Have I missed something or have you possibly misread something yourself 🤪
I don’t know how small you are thinking, but if it’s V0 size, make sure you’ve seen the “crucible” on 3dprintersforants, it looks cool 😎